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The cuisine is modern, infused with flavours of the south.

Rooms, each named after an artist, have period furnishings; bath and shower rooms have a stone sink and underfloor heating.

Like Mas de la Fouque it is part of the small H8 Collection hotel group, with the same values of luxury and charm.

0033 4 72 77 44 44, Grand Hôtel des Bains, Locquirec, Brittany: Light floods the interior of this flower-decked, family-run spa hotel at a resort and fishing port between the Côte de Granite Rose and the Côte Sauvage on the North Brittany coast. 0033 2 98 67 41 02, Hotel Crillon Le Brave, Crillon-Le-Brave, Provence: English owners Peter Chittick and Craig Miller launched this very special hotel (Relais & Château) in one historic house, at the heart of a hilltop village, in 1989,; since then it has subsumed seven more.

M Valbray cooks a four-course dinner with vegetables from the potager. 0033 2 33 27 54 71, Hôtel Caron de Beaumarchais, Paris: Music to your eyes, this lovely, romantic small hotel in the arty Marais district is decorated in 18th-century style with a Mozart theme (Pierre-Augustin Caron de Beaumarchais lived next door where he wrote "Le Mariage de Figaro" in 1778). Dordogne: There is a lovely lived-in feel to this pale stone château in parkland a short drive from Périgeux.

It was rescued from ruin by its owners, and is filled with antiques, old-world charm and modern comforts.

From the "bistronomic" menu choose such dishes as oxtail, duck foie gras and celeriac ravioli, seabass meunière with shellfish.

Outside there are flowery terraces, olive and fig trees, views over vineyards.

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