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But it is a very good restaurant nonetheless, hardly worthy of the indifference that Vietnam's disciples heap upon it.

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The deep-fried spring rolls, served over bowls of rice vermicelli "bun," are probably the best in town, their blistered skins delicately crisped from the heat, their meat-and-noodle stuffings slightly lighter with chicken instead of the usual pork.

After several investigative visits, however, I'd have to say it's their loss.

The Palace may not, in fact, be better overall than Vietnam.

The sauteed needle noodles with pork and shrimp were bland and gummy.

The whole striped bass - served either fried or steamed with ginger sauce - was OK both ways, but tinged with the soapy aftertaste I often associate with farmed bass.

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